With a lot of WS2812 connected in serial and some 5Volt power supplies, you can get very creative! I used some specific hardware like an octoswitch to get the required voltage levels to drive the WS2812’s in 8 strings of a lot of LED’s, in tubes. Watch the videos!
5-voudige cold/hotend combinatie voor mijn A30M
Deze 5-voudige hot-en cold end combinatie wordt geinstalleerd op mijn A30M met het Duet2wifi board+extension board (5-voudig met plug-in drivers).
De A30M heeft al onafhankelijke Z-stepper motoren.
De Duet2wifi heeft 5 stappenpoorten, en het uitbreidingsbord heeft ook 5 stappenpoorten. X,Y,2xZ, en 5 Extruders is een totaal van 9 dus dit gaat inderdaad passen!
Ik zal nieuwe bedrading maken voor de 5 extruder steppers boven op het A30M frame met 5 bowden buizen naar de hotend.
Aangezien de hotend niet mengt, zal dit een eenvoudige klus zijn om in config.g. te krijgen.
Voor de slicer zal het ook eenvoudig zijn.
Voeg gewoon de extruders toe tot een totaal van 5 stuks.
Voeg de juiste filamenten/temps/ geen offset toe dus zet offset X en Y op 0.
Het werk zal voornamelijk zitten in de tool changing files voor T0-T5 waar retraction- en extruding settings nodig zullen zijn.
Zoals ik n u werk met de 4-voiudige toolchanger van E3D kun je beter de retractie door de slicer laten uitvoeren, dus daar ga ik in eerste instantie mee aan de slag!
Voor de hotend heb ik een nieuwe setup beschikbaar waarmee ik snel de nozzle kan veranderen.
Dit zal het mogelijk maken om deze setup voor allerlei toepassingen te gebruiken.
Qua hardware moet ik nog wel een plekje vinden voor de Z-sensor, zo dicht mogelijk naast het hotend.
FLY CDY V2 SDcard content download
Since the FLY_CDY_V2 STM32 board comes without any firmware installed, I made a simple link for you to download and extract everything you need to a 2-16GB microSDcard.
Just download, extract, burn as-is to SD and plug it in the board, fire the board up and all works!
Make sure you follow the guideline HERE for getting attached to the board via wifi by using a USB cable and YAT terminal on your PC to get the home wifi SSID and Password programmed to ROM into the board, AFTER you installed firmware by putting in the SDcard and firing it up.
The settings in config.g at the SDcard are made for a Cartesian XYZ machine with triple extruder. This can all be changed to fit your build in config.g.
For a delta, use THIS DUET2wifi DELTA config.g and change the pin_name of bed heater according to the FLY_CDY_V2 name convention (thus: use bed instead of bed_heater).
For more info about the board and connecting to the electronics, steppers, endstops, filament sensors, BLTouch, Neopixels etcetera go HERE
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download
Cheers,
Jan Griffioen
independant Z-axis with FLY-CDY-V2
I replaced my Duet2wifi with the Mellow’s FLY-CDY-V2 motherboard
My cloned Duet2wifi MB that was running in my I3 bear suddenly refused to start up any longer, so I decided to put my recently purchased Mello FLY-CDY-V2 motherboard in the I3 bear printer. Up to now, the makerbase Duet2wifi clones keep working properly and all other clones die on me…
During the replacement process I encountered the following issues:
- The microSD card sleeve on the board was loose on 1 side. I noticed that the board just got in a frozen status now and then. The solution I finally discovered was that the microSD card holder had to be soldered back to the board, so the SD card made better contact with the little metal parts inside the holder. Since the repair, no problems anymore!
- The connectors of the Fly vboard are standard X254 connectors, which I prefer. But, the Duet uses propriatary ones so I had to replace all connectors. But, I shortened all cables in doing this so I now have a very neat looking etup.
- I had to print a new case for this board. I found only 1 available version that also had a fan in the cover. Slick and well ventilated. Available on Thingiverse!
- The available help on internet like Github pages are all well documented but you must be certain to choose the V2 version of the board for firmware and so on since the FLY-CDY (without V2) is a completely different board with another processor (LPC). be aware that things are not comparable between the two boards. The V2 is not just an upgrade!
- The rest on the board is quite clear with regards to usage and placement. All self-explainatory.
- The only way to connect your paneldue is via the serial 4-pin connector. The block cables don’t work ‘as-is’. The paneldue works flawless.
- The firmware and DWC software works very well on this STM32-based board. Also updating works flawlesssly.
- The difference that matters most to me is some little issues like different naming conventions, pin naming differences between the 2 boards and so on. Nothing very difficult but is makes it impossible to swap your configs between the boards without some editing. I would thing=k that cloning should be done more reliable, that would make the board sell better imho.
- There is no breakout/expansion port. Due to the chosen processor, the potential of the Due2wifi with the many expansion possibilities is niot available on the CDY-FLY-V2.
- What you do get on the FLY-CDY-V2:
- Neopixel port up to 60 WS2812 LEDS (10 max or more with seperate 5V PSU)
- max 4 heaters ( 1 bed, 3 other)
- max 4 temp sensors (1 bed, 3 others)
- max 3 controllable (PWM) fan outputs
- max 6 steppers with any sort of (pluggable) drivers (UART only, no SPI)
- max 6 end- (or other) switch inputs
- 12-36 Volt power input
- BLtouch port fully functional
- wifi unit
- DWC webbased DUET2wifi controllable
- Laser port
- A limited number of controllable GPIO pins are available on the EXP2 and EXP 1 port, this could be used for driving accessories like magnets, valves, extra LED’s and so on (via uplifters/Mosfet boards)
- Jumper for setting the power to the min/max switches at VCC or 5V (choose 5V!!)
- If you want, the option to have PT100 chip installed gives you 1 input for PT100
- The Duet2wifi firmware suite is available for this board through a specific development Github page, and as long as this is maintained updates for the board’s reprap firmware and DWC are available.
Are professional 3d printers overpriced?
For what it’s worth, the articles I write are not only based on my opinion and experience, common sense is also part of my written content.
In the first place you should ask ourself what you would define to be a professional 3d printer. Is it about price, durability, quality, size, usability, repeatability, speed, portability, cloud-based usage, shared usage, or possibly some other requirement that you find inportant? If you read the world’s professional literature about 3d-printing, it is always about either making one-off products or prototypes for complex (machine, dental, medical) purposes, or it has to do with printing parts in series for a specific branch of industry. In both cases, the to be printed material is mostly nothing like the hobbyist uses. Professional printing goes from carbon/fiber to stainless steel, ceramics, titanium and so on. Most professional production printers are in the price range above 30 k Euro.
3d printers from 500 Euro up until 15 k Euro are usually very good and precise at printing with common materials like ABS/PLA/Nylon/PetG, Carbon/wood et cetera and have a higher price tag than standard consumer models due to specific added value like the ability to print really big models, heated chamber, multicolor et cetera.
The X1 160Pro™ is the world’s largest metal binder jetting system and is now shipping to customers. A controlled-atmosphere model of the system, capable of high-volume aluminum and titanium production, will be available in late 2022. (Photo: Business Wire)And- after printing, most of these printed parts need post-processing like sintering for aluminium.
The price for professional 3d printers is a summation of a number of drivers, like:
- Developing / staffing
- Developing / materials, software and so on
- Tools, offices, warehouse and so on
- Patents costs
- Price and quality of materials
- Production costs
- Marketing costs
- Post-delivery costs (Service/maintenance)
With the hobbyist’s 3d printers, there is really only one driver for the costs, which is materials and production. Of course the quality is an issue here because cheap parts of lesser quality will make products of lesser quality. All other drivers from the above list are not required and/or have already been put in the public domain and are therefore not put in the final selling price. With professional 3d printers, the production numbers are usually low, quality high and developing processes are usually lengthy and expensive. Thus, the price per sold 3d printer will be uplifted a lot from the development related costs. On top of this, the real development of 3d printing is not even starting. The pioneers that develop printers will have to keep developing over and over again. Only when professional 3d printers will be in a stable production phase and development is more like tweaking than making large steps, it is possible to see prices drop.
So- to answer the question: No, professional 3d printers are not overpriced. But- they are expensive and are only interesting if you already need products that can be made today with such a specific printer. Think of car parts development, Formula 1- engine developments and so on. In these industries, it is very expensive to get a mold and rework a rough newly developed product in the conventional way so a 3d metalprinter will fulfill an already existing need. And the investment will pay back very quick due to the fast production times. And- the engineers that design a part can just use their existing tooling to make designs for 3d printing.
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