Author: Jan Griffioen

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CNC conversion of my Toolmania WBM16LV (TM BF 16) mill with NEMA23 steppers, 3dprinted adapters, teethed wheels and teethed belts

Before My Toolmania WBM16LV milling machine was delivered I already had plans to convert it to a CNC milling machine.

I do have some experience with 3d printing, and I have 2 CNC routers up and running, like the Indymill.  So, the conversion of this mill will not be difficult in the Technical sense.  But- making the perfect designs for the adapter plates of the Y- and X- axes proved to be a lot more work than I expected.

The column cutter is already equipped with glass scales with digital readout.  Furthermore, there is a gas spring mounted on the Z-column so that not all the weight is in the way when moving back and forth.  Also an automatic lubrication system for the slides of X, Y and Z-axis will be mounted.)

DOWNLOAD ALL MY CNC TEETHED ADAPTER DESIGNS  as .STL files

The electronics will become OpenCNC + wifi + wireless controlbox. I received the kit and will put it together the coming weeks.  For now I am going to set the mill up with my all-in one USB-CNC-MDK2 board.  I use this for all of my routers and mills to get it set up in first instance since it is very simple and sturdy. And- you can run it instantaniously without any PC or programming, just with the handwheel or from SD card.  And from the laptop, of course.

GOTO the X axis CNC adapter

GOTO the Y axis CNC adapter

GOTO the Z axis CNC adapter

DOWNLOAD MY CNC ADAPTER DESIGNS  as .STL files

LATEST NEWS:

After this all worked well, I also made designs for  NEMA direct drive adapters on my Toolmania MiniMill:

Direct drive adapter for the X-axis
Direct drive adapter for Y-axis

Above: Direct drive adapter for the Z-axis

left top the Z-axis adapter, right the X axis adapter and at the bottom the Y-axis adapter

What makes it tricky is the choice to make: Will I replace the spindles with ball bearing spindles or not?  Not for the time being, first let’s make everything on CNC and then I’ll see how it goes.

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Minimill CNC conversion WMD16LV X-axis adapter for NEMA23 direct drive

While I was making my CNC adapter plates with teethed wheels and belts, I discovered that not much exists that is ready to use for these conversions.

I am therefore also making direct drive adapter parts, to try this out.

This is the second piece I make for direct drive, for the X-axis.

The leadscrew has an outside part for the handwheel we will use for CNC that is 10mm, and some thread 8mm.  The thread is needed to be bolting the angular bearings (not meant for side torque) with some torque to the bearing holder.

If you do direct drive, you need a special coupler that can be split in 2. Then, you first mount one part on the leadscrew with some rings between the mill and the coupler part so that the nut can be placed in the coupler.  If the thread is too long, grind some off.

Then, put the rubber (with centerhole)  back in the coupler’s mounted part and push the other part in the rubber, so the coupler is complete.

Then, mount the printed adapter with already mounted Nema23 motor on the Y-axis and push the Nema shaft in the coupler.  Use the adapter’s right hand side working window to torque the connector on the Nema shaft and you’re done!

Should you want to have a handwheel as well, this is possible but you will have to buy a stepper with an axis that is both at the front as the rear. (this is called ‘double shaft’ but is actually a longer shaft, obviously.

GOTO the Direct Drive Y-axis adapter

GOTO the Direct Drive Z-axis adapter

DOWNLOAD the latest version of the STL printfiles 

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download

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Minimill CNC conversion WMD16LV Z-axis adapter for NEMA23 direct drive

While I was making my CNC adapter plates with teethed wheels and belts, I discovered that not much exists that is ready to use for these conversions.

I am therefore also making direct drive adapter parts, to try this out.

This is the third piece I make for direct drive, for the Z-axis.

This pice is fairly simple: First a good fit is needed to mount the adapter to the top of the Z-column, and the holes for the 4 bolts need to be acactly correct.  Also, the same for the leadscrew hole of the bearing holder.

Then, on top of this, the Nema23 holder/mounting is projected.  Including all needed boltholes, nutholes and a side hole for tightening the coupler.

The leadscrew has an outside part for the handwheel we will use for CNC that is 10mm, and some thread 10mm for Z.  The thread is needed to be bolting the angular bearings (not meant for side torque) with some torque to the bearing holder.

If you do direct drive, you need a special coupler that can be split in 2. Then, you first mount one part on the leadscrew with some rings between the mill and the coupler part so that the nut can be placed in the coupler.  If the thread is too long, grind some off.

Then, put the rubber (with centerhole)  back in the coupler’s mounted part and push the other part in the rubber, so the coupler is complete.

Then, mount the printed adapter with already mounted Nema23 motor on the Y-axis and push the Nema shaft in the coupler.  Use the adapter’s right hand side working window to torque the connector on the Nema shaft and you’re done!

Should you want to have a handwheel as well, this is possible but you will have to buy a stepper with an axis that is both at the front as the rear. (this is called ‘double shaft’ but is actually a longer shaft, obviously.]

GOTO the X-axis Direct Drive adapter

GOTO the Y-axis Direct Drive adapter

DOWNLOAD LATEST VERSION OF THIS PART IN MY SHOP 

BUY THIS PART IN MY SHOP will come soon

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Building a Prusa mini clone (Fysetc parts)

Last week (2021-Nov-04)  I ordered me a Prusa mini clone from Aliexpress.

I already have an original Prusa Mini from the moment it was offered by Prusa.  I waited for over 1/2 a year to get it delivered as I was one of the (almost) first to order it.  And-  I value the machine very positive.

I use it for professional prints, mostly with white, orange and black PETG.

I hope that my additional Prusa Mini will be just as perfect as my original one.

On Ali, everything was offered except the printed parts.  It includes a buddyboard 32 bits with 2209 drivers, LCD 2.6 inch, 3 motors, nuts and bolts, cables, hoses, bearings, clamps, hotbed, pei sheet, rods, extruder, fans, extrusion, you name it, really everything is included for 105 Euro’s .  But- you guessed it- I never got anything delivered. I have a dispute running now, hopefully I wiull get the money back.  And- I ordered a new one, now the costs are more than double, as is to be expected.

As add-on I ordered 2 renewed Z-sensors (including temp sensor)  from Prusa for Eur 50 incl. Tax and shipment.  With this, both mini’s can be upgraded to Mini+ 3d printers.  Except the longer bed of course.  Also, both the buddyboards will get the Mini+ firmware.

Since I also own an original Prusa mini, printing the parts was easy, as you can see in the attached pictures.:

Still, also a Prusa mini can have stringing wth PetG. OR, i think this was caused because I purposely set the temp very high to get extremely solid prints.  Whatever, I cleaned the printed parts afterwards with a knife and that turned out to be easy enough.

The black PETG parts got printed on my Ender 3 pro+.

Built after receival of the non-printed parts on 2021-12-22  JMWG.NL

I upgraded the Buddyboard V1.0.0 straight away to the latest Prusa Mini firmware and compared the prints against my Original Prusa Mini.

I honestly could not see any difference between the two of them.

The stuff I ordered on Ali:

Https://github.com/FYSETC/FYSETC-Prusa-mini-clone

3.2/2.8 MW power is momenteel in voldoende voorraad, bent u welkom om een bestelling plaatst, de voorraad is in de Spaanse magazijn, dank u voor uw steun,

Video tutorial:





Pakket:
Schroef kit 1
Tool kit 1
USB disk 1
Gladde staven kit 1
3030 extrusie kit 1
625 lager 3
12.5mm, 3mm OD as 1
4.9*12mm as 1
16T GT2 Katrol (als MK3) 2
Platte Katrol (als MK3) 2
X/Y riem 2
LM8UU 5
LM10LUU 2

Elektronica
Motoren kit 1
Buddy besturingskaart 1
Thermistor hotend 1
Thermistor verwarmd bed 1
Filament sensor kit 1
Heatedbed 1
Verwarmd bed kabel 1
LCD (als kiezen) 1
24V 40w cartridge 1
PSU (als kiezen) 1
Minda 1
Fans 2
Extruder versnellingen 1
Hotend kit 1
Bowden tube 1
Y vervoer 1
Z bodemplaat 1
Gouden textuur stalen plaat 1

Dit product omvat niet prints. Als u of kopen het zelf, het bestand afdrukken link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4338197
3.2 inch scherm case STL Link:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4307001

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Original ID 1965 leather front chairs for my Citroën ID20 convertible (1970)

Original ID20 chairs for the convertible are very hard to find, especially lately.

Fortunately, I have a complete set on stock with the front chairs side handle to fold the back forward, both left and right in the original brown leather version.

Also, I have the rear bench and back from the same donor ID (1965).  The rear bench don’t fit in my 1970 ID20 convertible but the front chairs will fit nicely.  I will get the car tomorrow out of the winter storage …erm, this will be done a little later,,,  But- they will first be refurbished with black leather,  The appointment is made for 2nd week of September.  Will see when they are ready!  Then, finally, I can take the temporary Volvo C70 chairs out.  But only after all of the remaining issues are handled.

The issue list contains a full outside overhaul of the body, the coming fall and winter.  Everything will be taken out and off- bumpers, mirrors, lights, windows et cetera.  Then- sanding it down and making the body nice again.

Then, the inside will be done. A lot of work will be needed on the inside of the doors and on the side panels of the rear of the car. These panels are a combination of the donor panels from the Aui80 and some metal sheeting that I glued on these panels to fit the longer car.  These need to become integrated side panels, and they need to be covered with black leather.

After that, a new paint job in racing red is foreseen for spring 2022.

Then, the car will be put together again and the new carpets, A-, B- pillar covers and so on for the interior will be put in.

And then, finally, the refurbished (old) front chairs will be put in where they belong!

 

De oorspronkelijke bruin leer rechter cabriostoel
Leer verwijderd om als mal te dienen voor het nieuwe zwarte leer
Het nieuwe zwarte leer gesneden
Nieuwe geïmpregneerde deurpanelen gemaakt

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Printing at maximum width on my Geeetech A30M with PETG and the Duet2wifi board

Yesterday I exchanged the dual nozzle printerhead (Chimera) that I have been using for dual printing all kinds of goodies like my name tag and several dual color prints, with the original single nozzle-dual extruder head.

I needed to print a LED lights circular holder that is 328mm wide, and the setrup with the Chimera just does net get that wide on the X-axis.

The result is below: It took some tweaking in the bed size settings but I have exactly 330×330 X*Y available, awesome!

 

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3d printer IDEX PrusaBear dual X-axis for dual independant extruders

Looking at all the different IDEX designs that are based on either a coreXY setup, a Prusa3, Bear or not-, or on an Ender3/10 setup, I chose to do it from scratch.

An IDEX printer has independantly extruders, but nowhere is mentioned in what sense or -way the indepentand extruders are defined.

Since I have much experience with my dual Bear setup, where I park the hotend carriages and use 1 moving centerpiece with electromagnets to catch either the left carriage with hotend or the right carriage and hotend, I think that making a new printer for IDEX from scratch will be a good idea.

I did get my I3bear with IDEX on a single X-axis with magnetic carriages on the same axis  running very well in the end.

Contrary to my A30M with a Chimera fixes dual hotend/extruder. That works very well, but also has its limitations.  Limitations like low speed and the fact that you will always have some dripping on your object from the other nozzle, that is fixed at about 22mm to the right or left of the active nozzle.  But- it is a really good solution for an 0.6mm nozzle, if you push the layer height to 0. 3 mm.

For my IDEX setup I will to use a standard Bear frame, made from 2040 aluminium, and all axes are based on standard I3 dual rods. Then, add a frond and a rear X-axis to the frame with each having its own Z-drives. Then, it looks like this:

The only additional printed parts needed are the X-axis motor holder for the rear and 2 top Z-holders:

The rest is all standard I3bear stuff.

For this printer I need a motherboard with 7 drivers, being 2*X, 1*Y, 2*Z and 2*E.

Since I have a Fly407 MB  with 9! driver positions in stock, already programmed for RRF3, wifi and with an LCD unit attached, I will use this to get a Duet setup with Duet Web Controller along.  easy to reprogram, and I can finally check the board’s capabilities.

I just need to get me a casing for the board, but that’ll not prevent me from using it!

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Prusa i3bear long-bed printer 200x600x200mm

Because I am missing a real large 3d-printer I intend to fabricate a Prusa i3bear based long-bed printer with extended Y-axis with a printsize of  200x, 600y, and 200z.

I started with printing all the components, and laid out the frame.

Everything will be standard i3 Bear, last version except the extruder.

I will use a BIQU H2 for this build, of which I have 2 on stock.

The Y-rails will be linear rails, mounted on 2040 aluminium extrusion.

The heated bed will be 3x 200×200 mm, directly mounted on 2020 extrusion.  No height settings for the bed, no nuts that can be warped.  The mesh has to take care of any unflatness and/or unsquareness.

On top of the bed, a pei plate will be placed that will have to be custom-made, I will check where to get this.  600×200 should be doable, and otherwise I could always just use glass and stick pei on it.

So- will it work with a heated bed of 3x normal size?  Well, I know it will work.  I have my A30M running with a 310×310 heated bed including a 4mm glass plate on it, at 150mm/s for infill moves.  And it never misses a step.

If you do the math, 200×600 =1200 mm2 and 310×310=945 mm2, not a great difference!  I will anyhow put in a bigger stepper for the Y- axis, and I can add a back coupling unit on it, so it will never miss any steps anyway.

 

 

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