The design for the Y-axis mounting plate for the Nema23 stepper  is shown below and can be 3dprinted or, as I will do after the printed part proves to fit well, CNC it in aluminium on my CNC Indymill router.

The Y-axis adapter proved to be the most difficult design.  It took me 15 trial prints before I got everyting fully optimized.  And I also wanted to have a debree screen with a removable lid, which took some energy to test this.  Also, the belt has to have a clean route where it sits between the wheel.

The physical data for this setup:

• Nema23 stepper motor
• 3d printed parts: a: Baseplate inclusing risers for motormount and shield; b: lid
• Teethed wheel for the Nema23 8mm axle: 10mm wide, 24 teeth M3 with chest
• Teethed wheel for the leadscrew 10mm axle: 10mm wide: 48 teeth M3 with chest, machined on the teethed inside 9mm depth with a  width of 33 mm diameter to fit the chest of the leadscrew bearing holder
• The fitting belt is 9mm wide, 300 mm long and has 100 teeth (M3)

GOTO the MiniMill’s X-axis CNC Nema23 mounting plate

GOTO the MiniMill’s Z-axis CNC Nema23 mounting plate

FINAL DESIGN:

Machined the inner part out on the lathe so it will slide for about 9mm over the Y axis’ leadscrew bearing holder

GOTO the X axis adapter

GOTO the Z axis adapter

DOWNLOAD THE CNC ADAPTER DESIGNS  as STL

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download

NEW VERSION with debree screen:

For this setup you need

• 1 pice Nema23 56 length stepper motor with 6.35 mm axis
• 1  piece 12-teethed M3 wheel with collar, hole dia 6.35 mm, 11 mm width
• 1  piece 24-teethed M3 wheel with NO collar, hole dia 10 mm, 11 mm width
• Teethed M3 belt , 9 mm wide and length 255 or 275 mm (need to check this)
• 3d printed parts
• M8 rings and nut

Here the connection is shown onto the X-axis/ leadscrew bearing holder with 2 M6 bolts.

And front lid:

And the Milling design for the base plate for CNC machining in aluminium should you prefer this.

The 3D print file for the debree cover and the stepper motor risers, to be placed on the aluminium milled base plate:

GOTO the Y axis adapter

GOTO the Z axis adapter

DOWNLOAD THE CNC ADAPTER DESIGNS  as STL

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download

New version V3 after the second fit:

The mount on the Z-column needed to get UP so the NEMA23 teethed wheel gets at the same level as the wheel that is mounted on the leadscrew.

Required hardware:

• 3d printed Z-axis adapter
• Nema23 stepper 76 mm length with enough torque, 8mm axle diameter
• 48teeth M3 teethed  wheel of 11mm width, 10mm hole with collar for the leadscrew
• 24 teeth M3 teethed wheel 11mm width , 8mm hole with collar for the Nema23 stepper motor
• new M6 40mm length bolts flathead for the top connection to the Z column
• 4 bolts and nuts M5 to mount the Nema 23 stepper
• teethed belt 300mm M3 (100 teeth) 9 or 10mm

OR, use the 72 teethed wheel on the leadscrew and get a larger length belt of (I  estimate) 330-350 mm

OR.. another way to mount the Nema23stepper is at the rear of the Z column, BUT I don’t want it to stick out at the rear, that’s why I decided to mount the stepper at the left of the Z-column…

GOTO the X axis adapter

GOTO the Y axis adapter

DOWNLOAD THE CNC ADAPTER DESIGNS  as STL

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download

2021-10-30:  When converting (or upgrading, depends on your P.O.V.) a mill to CNC, it is absolutely necessary to have end stops on all ends. Except the low-end of the Z-axis, an end stop at the Z-axis low end is practically impossible.

On the Z-axis low end another solution has been established by using a Z-stop from the milling toolbit on a fixed X-Y position, OR by testing with the toolbit in place on the matrerial by sight or electronically.

I bought a Z-position sensor for this, which is nothing more than an electrically insulated round pod with a flexible brass top. It is with one wire connected to the Mach3- motherboard as Z-probe and triggers when the tooltip touches the top of the Z pod’s brass top.  Therefore, this trigger is defined as ACTIVE when it is conected to Ground.  Since the mill will be grounded and thus also the tooltip is always connected to ground.  You MUST ground the mill, by the way.  Also for your safety.

Leaves us with the 5 enstops for which I have bought the thinnest available inductive sensors. These are M6 size round and about 8 cm long. These sensors require power, ground and since they are NPN type sensors which means Normally OPEN when NOT active, they will  ground the output pin when activated at reaching the the stop position.  To activate these inductive sensors,  a carbon- containing metal would be best to use and bring the sensor close.  The trigger moment depends on the connected power voltage.  The higher the voltage, the more sensitive the sensor becomes.

I will use 12 Volts or 24 Volts, I will experience a bit with these settings.

On the net I was unable to find any plug and play sensor holders for my mill, so I developed these holders again from scratch in OpenScad.

Fortunately, I have a lot of starting material in OpenScad from my previous projects.

The X axis left:

 

The X axis right hand side:

 

The Y axis front:

 

The Y axis rear:

 

The Z-axis top:

 

While I was making my CNC adapter plates with teethed wheels and belts, I discovered that not much exists that is ready to use for these conversions.

I am therefore also making direct drive adapter parts, to try this out.

This is the first one, starting with the most difficult one.  The rest will be added soon.

Version 1.2 which is 15 mm shorter and much more robust:

The leadscrew has an outside part for the handwheel we will use for CNC that is 10mm, and some thread 8mm.  The thread is needed to be bolting the angular bearings (not meant for side torque) with some torque to the bearing holder.

If you do direct drive, you need a special coupler that can be split in 2. Then, you first mount one part on the leadscrew with some rings between the mill and the coupler part so that the nut can be place in the coupler.  If the thread is too long, grind some off.

Then, put the rubber (with centerhole)  back in the coupler’s mounted part and push the other part in the rubber, so the coupler is complete.

Then, mount the printed adapter with already mounted Nema23 motor on the Y-axis and push the Nema shaft in the coupler.  Use the adapter’s right hand side working window to torque the connector on the Nema shaft and you’re done!

Should you want to have a handwheel as well, you will have to buy a stepper with an axis that is both at the front as the rear. (this is called ‘double shaft’ but is actually a longer shaft, obviously.

OR- my latest design works a bit different: first put a couple of  10mm rings on the leadscrew’s 10mm axle, and then screw a  threaded RVS tube with an outer diameter of 12mm, 25 mm long and internal 8mm thread on the axle.  This goed into a 12 to 8mm coupler and this coupler connects to a NEMA23 stepper motor with an 8 mm axis.  It does get a bit lengthy but it works very well.  Just threadlock the RVS threaded tube to the leadscrew’s 8mm threaded end and it will run OK!

This is the last version, based on the above setup:

GOTO the Dirext Drive X-adapter

GOTO the Direct Drive Z-adapter

DOWNLOAD the latest version of the STL printfiles 

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download

Before My Toolmania WBM16LV milling machine was delivered I already had plans to convert it to a CNC milling machine.

I do have some experience with 3d printing, and I have 2 CNC routers up and running, like the Indymill.  So, the conversion of this mill will not be difficult in the Technical sense.  But- making the perfect designs for the adapter plates of the Y- and X- axes proved to be a lot more work than I expected.

The column cutter is already equipped with glass scales with digital readout.  Furthermore, there is a gas spring mounted on the Z-column so that not all the weight is in the way when moving back and forth.  Also an automatic lubrication system for the slides of X, Y and Z-axis will be mounted.)

DOWNLOAD ALL MY CNC TEETHED ADAPTER DESIGNS  as .STL files

The electronics will become OpenCNC + wifi + wireless controlbox. I received the kit and will put it together the coming weeks.  For now I am going to set the mill up with my all-in one USB-CNC-MDK2 board.  I use this for all of my routers and mills to get it set up in first instance since it is very simple and sturdy. And- you can run it instantaniously without any PC or programming, just with the handwheel or from SD card.  And from the laptop, of course.

GOTO the X axis CNC adapter

GOTO the Y axis CNC adapter

GOTO the Z axis CNC adapter

DOWNLOAD MY CNC ADAPTER DESIGNS  as .STL files

LATEST NEWS:

After this all worked well, I also made designs for  NEMA direct drive adapters on my Toolmania MiniMill:

Above: Direct drive adapter for the Z-axis

What makes it tricky is the choice to make: Will I replace the spindles with ball bearing spindles or not?  Not for the time being, first let’s make everything on CNC and then I’ll see how it goes.

While I was making my CNC adapter plates with teethed wheels and belts, I discovered that not much exists that is ready to use for these conversions.

I am therefore also making direct drive adapter parts, to try this out.

This is the second piece I make for direct drive, for the X-axis.

The leadscrew has an outside part for the handwheel we will use for CNC that is 10mm, and some thread 8mm.  The thread is needed to be bolting the angular bearings (not meant for side torque) with some torque to the bearing holder.

If you do direct drive, you need a special coupler that can be split in 2. Then, you first mount one part on the leadscrew with some rings between the mill and the coupler part so that the nut can be placed in the coupler.  If the thread is too long, grind some off.

Then, put the rubber (with centerhole)  back in the coupler’s mounted part and push the other part in the rubber, so the coupler is complete.

Then, mount the printed adapter with already mounted Nema23 motor on the Y-axis and push the Nema shaft in the coupler.  Use the adapter’s right hand side working window to torque the connector on the Nema shaft and you’re done!

Should you want to have a handwheel as well, this is possible but you will have to buy a stepper with an axis that is both at the front as the rear. (this is called ‘double shaft’ but is actually a longer shaft, obviously.

GOTO the Direct Drive Y-axis adapter

GOTO the Direct Drive Z-axis adapter

DOWNLOAD the latest version of the STL printfiles 

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download