Category: Multicolour

Posted on

Free STL download 2-part case for SEEED XIAO nano SAMD or RP2040

This is a tiny case for my XMAS LED projects, with RGB leds WS2811 or 2812B.

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download

download STL file small case Xiao nano&LDR&DS3231 with LDR hole 20241127 V14

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download

I also added a mini board with a clock chip, DS3231 to the XIAO USB-C board, and an LDR to make the RGB’s brighter when they are used during daylight conditions. An example Arduino code with clock function is HERE.

The LDR is mounted, the clock board is not yet mounted. A clock board is only required if you want to use the clock functions.  Using an LDR is highly recommended.

The LDR is mounted on the XIAO board’s top  on A0 and GND, so it can be flush to the outer skin of the case through the dedicated LDR hole.  Be aware to also add a 10K resistor between A0 and 3v3 since this board does not  have programmable PULL-UP resistors.

The mini DS3231 clock board is  connected to the XIAO’s pins A4 and A5, 3V3 and GND.  There is also a small battery on the little clock board., so the time will always be available.  I mounted the clock board so that the DS3231 chip is flat against the RP2040 chip. Then, the Data in and out of the clock board are then facing D4 and D5 of the RP2040. I used 2 Arduino pin headers to connect these data lines together. 3V3 aand GND are connected between the boards using thin wires.

Output to the LED’s is on pin 3 (D3). For the LEDS, also VCC and GND are required, either from the XIAO board’s VCC and GND pins or from the board’s 5V power supply +5V and GND connections.  The LDR is mounted making use of a little stud, cut off from the tiny clock board since they have to be removed from the clock board anyway.  This makes the LDR fit the box’s LDR hole perfectly.

For resetting an DR2040, a small hole is made to reach the little BOOT switch. This is sometimes required since the RP2040 can get bricked when a non-working void is uploaded.  Push the boot butten when powering up, release the button and the RP2040 is in recovery status. Up[load a simple program and the RP2040 will resume normal functioning. Then, the normal COM port will work again an normal flashing is again possible.

The case has a snap-on lid that will also fixate the outlet cable for the RGB LED’s.

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download

Posted on

MMU2S on Ender3pro with TT SKR E3 mini motherboard

In 2020 I upgraded my Ender 3 with synchronised Z-axes and a new motherboard, the SKR Mini E3 V2.1.

The Ender 3 is very reliable and has been equipped with a direct drive bondtech extruder but still has the original hotend.

I chose the Ender3 to be the 3d printer on which I will attach the MMU2S.  This also means that I will have to exchange the hotend/extruder combination with a Prusa Mk3S version.

Started this on May 4th, 2021.  Only the printed parts were needed, all other parts were already available through sourcing form a.o. Ali.  I printed everything in ABS, mostly red.  For this I used 2 machines: The Twotrees Sapphire pro with enclosure for black ABS and the Voron 2.3 (300) for red ABS.

The motherboard that is also in the Ender3, SKR mini E3 V2.1.  I used this setup to test the MMU hard- and software together with the SKR mini E3 motherboard
The MMU2S on top of the Ender3, just next to the 6mm belt that connects both Z-leadscrews
The bondtech Prusa MK3S hotend/extruder combination, mounted on a 2020 mounting plate for the Ender3

There is a firmware version for the SKR mini E3 V2.1 on Github that makes use of the MMU2S.  I downloaded this version and uploaded it to the board via visual studio code maker, all works well in the test setup. Some tweaking was needed in configuration.h and in the advance config, since I am using the S-version of the MMU2 and the filament sensor was not standard ON. And- it appears that the communication port needs to change to the 2nd port. You can see it all at the Reddit page, the additional changes to the published config files are these (thnx to fixel112):

Excerpt from Configuration.h:

#define SERIAL_PORT -1

#define SERIAL_PORT_2 2 <————— This has been the issue. Uncomment that line.

#define BAUDRATE 250000

Excerpt: Configuration_adv.h

#if ENABLED(PRUSA_MMU2)

// Serial port used for communication with MMU2.

// For AVR enable the UART port used for the MMU. (e.g., mmuSerial)

// For 32-bit boards check your HAL for available serial ports. (e.g., Serial2)

//#define MMU2_SERIAL_PORT 2

#define MMU2_SERIAL MSerial2

//#define MMU2_RST_PIN 23

// Enable if the MMU2 has 12V stepper motors (MMU2 Firmware 1.0.2 and up)

//#define MMU2_MODE_12V

// G-code to execute when MMU2 F.I.N.D.A. probe detects filament runout

#define MMU2_FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SCRIPT “M600”

…

#define MMU2_DEBUG // Write debug info to serial output

#endif // PRUSA_MMU2

Next is to put everything physically on the Ender, and exchange the hotend/extruder.  Then, the settings for the extrusion lengths will have to be determined.  And- the buffer for the filament between the MMU2S and the filament spools has to be installed. As soon as I have it all properly installed, more pictures will follow!

I discovered that the dual display I now use for the Ender3 will only work for Marlin LCD and no longer for TFT, since the serial TFT pins will be used to drive the MMU2S unit.  I exchanged the TFT/LCD unit with the original Ender3 LCD, I kept this in storage and tested it today with the Ender mini E3 V2.1 , it works very well!

The twotrees SKR Mini E3 V2.1 motherboard is really perfect for the combination with the MMU2S and the new  filament sensor in the new hotend/extruder. The firmware has been updated to include the MMU2S and the AUX’s serial that was previously used for the TFT screen is now in use by the MMU!  It all works!!!

Now the next thing was to get the new extruder, F.I.N.D.A. and the filament sensr to work properly.

That took some time and next on the agenda is the filament management.

I already decided to go with the original Prusa filament box with plates to hold the retracted filament for all 5 spools. The spools themselves will hang at the wall, behind the printer.  I don’t have space for standing spoolholders.  Underneath the spools the filament box with plates gets its place on the wall and from there the 5 PTFE tubes will run to the MMU!

error: Content is protected !!